Here’s a short guide to black tie for those who need to know what is the British formal dress code for an invite.
The Classic or Traditional Formal Dress Code
Hosts and hostesses should make their dress code absolutely clear on the invitation the level of formality, and is usually explicit on the formal attire required.
1. White Tie or Full Evening Dress – Formal evening wear which is generally kept for State Occasions, The Mansion House Banquet, Hunt Balls and some Oxford and Cambridge May and Commeration Balls.
2. Black-Tie, DJ or Dinner Jacket – Semi-formal evening wear: for private and public dinner parties, The Last Night of the Proms, dances and school proms. It has also supplanted white tie in some instances such as at Diplomatic Balls.
3. Morning Dress or formal daytime wear is worn by male members of a wedding party and at special occasions such as Royal Ascot.
4. Lounge Suits – Informal outfit, tie optional. Can usually wear any colour, but Navy or Grey are safest. Being a suit, blazer and trousers would match fabric and colourway.
Please note, smart casual is very relaxed and would usually be considered jeans, shirt/polo and dress trainers for footwear. This is an unacceptable ensemble to any formal event, and only at a wedding for an evening guest unless explicitly stated.
Black Tie – The semi-formal dress for the gentleman after 6pm (no tailcoat)
- Black dinner jacket (tuxedo) with ribbed silk or satin lapels, single breasted & with single button.
- Black trousers with silk braid down each leg.
- Black silk bow tie.
- Black waistcoat or cummerbund
- White dress shirt – pleated or Marcella, with cufflinks.
- Black silk socks
- Black patent leather dress shoes (get that polish out)
- Accessories include a white silk/cotton/linen breast pocket handkerchief.
Ladies Black Tie
When invited to a ‘do’ which requires black tie for the men, women are often uncertain what is required of them. There is a certain amount of latitude now and disagreement over what’s permissible.
For a drinks party between the hours of 6pm and 8pm a black cocktail dress on or below the knee is considered ideal. If a drinks party is followed by dinner and dancing as happens with most 21st birthday parties, the ladies should dress up for the more formal occasion by wearing a long dress or ball gown; and, of course, wear some ‘drippers’ but not too much. No tiaras!
Jennie Warner of Good Housekeeping says “ Never wear full length to a ‘black tie’ do – save that, and the gloves, lots of sparkly jewellery and tiara for when you get a ‘white tie’ invitation” With some white tie ‘do’s changing to black ties with long dresses the demarcation between the two stages of formal dress are blurring.
If you are in doubt about the dress code for the evening ask your hostess what she expects. It goes without saying, but to any wedding do not wear white clothing.
Black Tie Optional means, men, please try and come in a black tie but failing that in a dark lounge suit with buttoned collar and tie, and ladies in a cocktail attire or equivalent, with heels.
Debrett’s give this example: ‘Good hostesses could follow the lead of a well-known duchess who sends a written invitation to friends that includes a few short lines dispelling dress confusion: ‘Saturday night is black tie but palazzo pants will be absolutely fine’.
Black Tie Scottish Highland Dress comprises:
- Black jacket – Prince Charlie and Argyll are two of the most popular.
- Black waistcoat
- Kilt
- White shirt
- Black bow tie
- Black ghillie brogues
- Kilt hose
- Flashes
- Sporran
Scottish Highland Dress is worn commonly at both black tie and white tie events as well as ceilidhs and Scottish reels. Scottish Highland Dress is also seen at the increasingly ubiquitous kilt party all over the world.
Morning Dress: the standard dress for events before 5pm is as follows:
- Morning coat, tails, in black for the most formal occasions; light colours e.g. grey for weddings and less formal events. Usually a corsage over pocket square, although you can have both with a boutonnière.
- Grey striped trousers
- Black waistcoat (most formal i.e. funerals), grey, buff and white for weddings.
- Stiff white turn-down collar
- Long tie (or cravat with winged collar)
- White shirt or coloured / striped shirt with white collar and cuffs.
- Oxford black shoes; jodhpur boots are acceptable at equestrian events.
- Black or grey silk top hat – occasionally.
- Formal gloves e.g. chamois leather – occasionally
White Tie Dress Code: full evening dress for after 6pm
- Black Tails (tail coat) with satin or ribbed facings.
- Black trousers with two satin stripes.
- White stiff-fronted cotton shirt.
- White wing collar.
- White bow tie.
- White waistcoat.
- Black stockings.
- Black patent leather shoes.
- Medals, decorations and sashes are also worn.
Last point to ensure dress appropriately for the level of formality. Most men do not have these in their wardrobe just a suit for interviews, funerals and wedding attire. It is absolutely fine to hire them, and a good suit hire company will be able to give you advice and direction to ensure you look elegant and sophisticated at any evening events.
